[werk_ag]

This are good news, uncle_bob
By what I see in your weather station web pages it's working good. I know is still early to have a comparative opinion between the DHT22 and your new SHT10, but if possible, I like to have it.

One month? You are a lucky person.
One month is a normal shipping time from China to Portugal, some times it takes a month and a half or even two (very rare), but never less than 3 weeks.

[Live_Steam_Mad]

Nice to know about the date format.

Unfortunately the memory of the Arduino is quite limited, and in the case of the RX unit, the memory of the Arduino Nano is already being used almost entirely (especially when the TFT is used).
... memory no more

Certainly, a more efficient writing code could save a few more bytes ...

Perhaps in a 2015 code version...

I was not aware that the Arduino Nano V3 specifications only include 32KBytes of memory for programs as standard (and then only 30KBytes of actual user programs since 2KBytes is reserved and used for a boot loader I think), which kind of sucks considering this is the year 2014.

The spec's of the Nano are suspicously similar to the BBC Microcomputer Model B (32K RAM, Analog and Digital inputs, 8 bit CPU) and I suspect that the Nano has been inspired by the BBC Micro since the latter machine was a very popular home computer back in the early 1980's that a lot of people learned to program on in homes and in Schools. Maybe the Arduino designers wanted to bring something similar but a lot cheaper to the average hobbyist.

Pity that the memory is so small. Is that why you cannot add the code for Soil Moisture readings without difficulty? Maybe you could bring out a different optional version of your software that leaves out the code for the LCD screen driver and instead adds in code for extra sensors (visibility, mist, fog, snow, soil moisture etc) ? Since I will be using Cumulus and Wunderground for looking at my readings anyway.

Is there an Arduino or another similar device that has more than 32K RAM available? Maybe consider moving to using such a thing since your Nano memory has become totally used up to capacity?

BTW our date format in UK is dd/mm/yy also.

Regards,

Alistair G.

[werk_ag]

Pity that the memory is so small. Is that why you cannot add the code for Soil Moisture readings without difficulty? Maybe you could bring out a different optional version of your software that leaves out the code for the LCD screen driver and instead adds in code for extra sensors (visibility, mist, fog, snow, soil moisture etc) ? Since I will be using Cumulus and Wunderground for looking at my readings anyway.

Alistair G.

Dealing with a such small amount of memory, is one of the big challenges of all this

As you will see, the RX unit need to have some type of display. Maybe in future, with the upcoming of the Wireless Display units, we can do something to free some ram in the main units.

[Live_Steam_Mad]

OK so out of curiosity I had a look at what other Arduino compatible boards (i.e. cheap ones) there are, and came up with ;-

1) Arduino Yun ;-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arduino-Yun-Wi...259a30f4aa

It's the most expensive, at 41 GBP (65 USD), it uses an Atmel Atmega32U4 @ 16MHz, an 8-bit RISC microcontroller with 32KBytes of Flash memory, but with a Atheros AR9331 @ 400 MHz, 68.6 mm × 53.3 mm (2.7 in × 2.1 in), with USB and 5V. What I find interesting is the mention of the 16 MBytes of Flash and the 64 MBytes of SRAM, but I suspect that both of the latter memories are only available by the "Wifi system on a chip (SoC) [Atheros] running Linino, a MIPS GNU/Linux based on OpenWrt.", and thus not accessable directly for user programs?

2) is more interesting because it's rather cheaper at 27 GBP (43 USD) ;-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-SainSmart-...461050fdb4

...it's based on the Atmel ATmega2560 @ 16 MHz, 101.6 mm × 53.3 mm (4 in × 2.1 in), 5 V, and has 256K of Flash (most of it is available for user programs), it is an 8-bit RISC microcontroller. However I think it's still too expensive.

3) is the (again much cheaper at 15 GBP) Arduino Due ;-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Due-R3-Boa...417f76c8b7

...and is interesting as it's the first Arduino board based on an ARM Processor, ATSAM3X8E (Cortex-M3) , a 32-bit RISC microcontroller @ 84 MHz, 101.6 mm × 53.3 mm (4 in × 2.1 in), USB, 3.3 V, features 2 channel 12-bit DAC, 512KB Flash memory (for user programs?) and 96KB SRAM. Unlike most arduino boards, it operates on 3.3 V and is not 5 V tolerant. I feel that the cost of this is just about bearable but a little expensive for my liking.

4) the final option in the Arduino line up is the Mega 2560, which is basically the same board as the above Mega ADK as far as I can tell, still @ 16MHz and still has 256K Flash but a lot cheaper at 6GBP ;-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chic-Mega-2560...43d2a368f0

I found my info at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Ard...le_systems .

It would seem then that option #4 would be the "ideal" board to migrate to for the next version of WeatherDuino. If I was doing the programming anyway LOL. Unfortunately I am only the most basic of programmers LOL. Seriously Werk_AG, I am sure you have had similar thoughts, and I'll leave it in your capable hands, but it would be nice to see new features (soil moisture sensing, fog sensing etc) being made possible by having 8x the amount of available memory than the Nano!!

BTW my friend in SE England just sent me (it's still in the post at the moment, I can expect it in 2 days' time apparently) the Davis VP1 plus (dead, needs a new transmitter board I am guessing since there have been no flashes from the green LED that is (I think) supposed to be on the TX board), I'll have a look at it for him but I have the feeling it will be beyond my abilities to fix it. And there are no spares available anywhere. And the cost of a replacement board would be outrageous anyway IMHO (I've seen them on Ebay for the VP2 and they are over 100 GBP!).

Best Regards,

Alistair G.

[werk_ag]

We are never satisfied with what we have, isn't it?

Maybe one day, the guys from Arduino team, remember to draw a small board like the Nano, but with a ATMEGA 2560

With the actual design of the Arduino Mega or DUE boards, it would be necessary create a shield for these boards, which although possible would result in a costly board. Keep down the cost of building the WeatherDuino Pro2 system is a very important aspect for myself and for others too ( I think!)

[Live_Steam_Mad]

Can someone please tell me where they are getting their 30-pin DIP / DIL sockets from for their Arduino Nano?

My Nano with CH340G chipset arrived yesterday and I tried manually press fitting it into a "Turned Pin" / "Precision" 40-pins socket (which I have not soldered to the board yet) but it would not go in (too tight, hurt my fingers) whereas it did go into a standard / cheap 40-pin socket (the ones with the weak bendy thin legs) but with considerable force needed from my fingers.

I was thinking that maybe I could cut up a 40 pin socket for use on the actual PCB but then there would only be one supporting "bridge" of plastic at one end of the board, and I always use those bridges to lever against when I am removing the chip from it's socket.

I can only find Turned Pin 30 pin sockets in UK, and they are too tight for this style of chip (with the Nano having it's pins that stick up into your fingers) whereas this type of socket did allow me to fit my Nintendo / Ricoh RP2C03B PPU in rather nicely when I was doing my Nintendo NES RGB modification.

I can find a NTE435K30 from Radioshack that looks like it would do the job nicely, but I don't seem to be able to obtain these in UK and I can't order from Radioshack in USA? and there are none on Ebay that I can see.

http://www.radioshack.com/nte435k30-30-p...IOU48mTVRp

Help?!

BTW my friend's old Davis VP1 arrived and it's a disaster, the transmitter board is corroded with blue Copper Sulphate deposit (something ate the PCB's copper), I tried a new power cell in the PCB with cleaned contacts on the battery terminals and still no transmissions on 868 MHz (I used my scanner dongle, I can hear the transmissions from my FO 1081 clearly on 433.9MHz), the wind vane has much higher resistance to turning than it should have (worn out? grit / dirt in bearings?), the transmitter box has both of the 2 tabs broken off so the cover won't stay on, the cover itself is missing, and the tipping Rain guage cover (inverted plant pot) is missing. And he forgot to send me the console. LOL.

Finally my FO1081 had a wind speed glitch of 103Km/h tonight, the 2nd one in 2 weeks, with 2 different anemometers!

Regards,

Alistair G.

[uncle_bob]

Can someone please tell me where they are getting their 30-pin DIP / DIL sockets from for their Arduino Nano?

I un-soldered it from another piece of equipment but man it wasn't easy or pretty. They tend to end up looking like a banana
I only used this for my stripboard board and with the production systems I soldered the Nano's directly in.

My Nano with CH340G chipset arrived yesterday and I tried manually press fitting it into a "Turned Pin" / "Precision" 40-pins socket (which I have not soldered to the board yet) but it would not go in (too tight, hurt my fingers) whereas it did go into a standard / cheap 40-pin socket (the ones with the weak bendy thin legs) but with considerable force needed from my fingers.

Yep, these are the same as I mentioned above and they are always a tight fit.

I was thinking that maybe I could cut up a 40 pin socket for use on the actual PCB but then there would only be one supporting "bridge" of plastic at one end of the board, and I always use those bridges to lever against when I am removing the chip from it's socket.

That will be fine, once it's soldered in, it's strong. You can lever either against the other end, or against the PCB.

I can only find Turned Pin 30 pin sockets in UK, and they are too tight for this style of chip (with the Nano having it's pins that stick up into your fingers) whereas this type of socket did allow me to fit my Nintendo / Ricoh RP2C03B PPU in rather nicely when I was doing my Nintendo NES RGB modification.

Yeah, I couldn't get a Nano in one of these either or any other DIP chips have.

I can find a NTE435K30 from Radioshack that looks like it would do the job nicely, but I don't seem to be able to obtain these in UK and I can't order from Radioshack in USA? and there are none on Ebay that I can see.

As above, if you're dead set on using a socket, just (very carefully) cut the socket back. I broke the first one doing so with small sidecutters.
I'd recommend soldering the unsupported socket pins in place with the Nano (or another DIP chip) in the socket to ensure the socket stays in shape.

BTW my friend's old Davis VP1 arrived and it's a disaster, the transmitter board is corroded with blue Copper Sulphate deposit (something ate the PCB's copper), I tried a new power cell in the PCB with cleaned contacts on the battery terminals and still no transmissions on 868 MHz (I used my scanner dongle, I can hear the transmissions from my FO 1081 clearly on 433.9MHz), the wind vane has much higher resistance to turning than it should have (worn out? grit / dirt in bearings?), the transmitter box has both of the 2 tabs broken off so the cover won't stay on, the cover itself is missing, and the tipping Rain guage cover (inverted plant pot) is missing. And he forgot to send me the console. LOL.

Better build him a WeatherDuino too

Finally my FO1081 had a wind speed glitch of 103Km/h tonight, the 2nd one in 2 weeks, with 2 different anemometers!

Alistair, that's one of the key reasons why I took on this project. Another was the Wireless connection was real flaky, even while being very close.

Good luck, though it sounds like you know what you are doing and shouldn't need luck, just your skills

BTW; Maybe you should start you own go to whoa thread, just so it's easier to follow for other readers and people who are here just to poach Werk's code

[werk_ag]

These connectors are cheap and can be used to made a good Arduino Nano socket. Just cut two pieces with the correct size and solder them on the board. It's easy to insert or remove the nano.



Search on eBay for: 40 pin board female

[Live_Steam_Mad]

I un-soldered it from another piece of equipment but man it wasn't easy or pretty. They tend to end up looking like a banana
I only used this for my stripboard board and with the production systems I soldered the Nano's directly in.

My Nano with CH340G chipset arrived yesterday and I tried manually press fitting it into a "Turned Pin" / "Precision" 40-pins socket (which I have not soldered to the board yet) but it would not go in (too tight, hurt my fingers) whereas it did go into a standard / cheap 40-pin socket (the ones with the weak bendy thin legs) but with considerable force needed from my fingers.

Yep, these are the same as I mentioned above and they are always a tight fit.

I was thinking that maybe I could cut up a 40 pin socket for use on the actual PCB but then there would only be one supporting "bridge" of plastic at one end of the board, and I always use those bridges to lever against when I am removing the chip from it's socket.

That will be fine, once it's soldered in, it's strong. You can lever either against the other end, or against the PCB.

I can only find Turned Pin 30 pin sockets in UK, and they are too tight for this style of chip (with the Nano having it's pins that stick up into your fingers) whereas this type of socket did allow me to fit my Nintendo / Ricoh RP2C03B PPU in rather nicely when I was doing my Nintendo NES RGB modification.

Yeah, I couldn't get a Nano in one of these either or any other DIP chips have.

I can find a NTE435K30 from Radioshack that looks like it would do the job nicely, but I don't seem to be able to obtain these in UK and I can't order from Radioshack in USA? and there are none on Ebay that I can see.

As above, if you're dead set on using a socket, just (very carefully) cut the socket back. I broke the first one doing so with small sidecutters.
I'd recommend soldering the unsupported socket pins in place with the Nano (or another DIP chip) in the socket to ensure the socket stays in shape.

Finally my FO1081 had a wind speed glitch of 103Km/h tonight, the 2nd one in 2 weeks, with 2 different anemometers!

Alistair, that's one of the key reasons why I took on this project. Another was the Wireless connection was real flaky, even while being very close.

BTW; Maybe you should start you own go to whoa thread, just so it's easier to follow for other readers and people who are here just to poach Werk's code

OK then I just started my own build thread at ;-

http://www.meteocercal.info/forum/Thread...-at-WDPro2

I don't fancy levering directly against the PCB for getting the Nano out, so I'll likely just glue in a section of plastic where the end "bridge" is missing when I cut up and re-use an old low precision / non-turned pin socket.

My wireless connection to the FO 1081 doesn't seem to be a problem, but the glitches sure are. Note that my friend who used to run the Davis VP1 also had glitches in temperature and relative humidity quite often (like once a day), maybe the combined temp. / humidty sensor was faulty, or maybe there was a glitch in the wireless link, who knows. Often it would not connect to Cumulus either through the Serial to USB converter. I'll be glad to get a WD Pro2 up and running with no glitches LOL.

Regards,

Alistair G.

[Live_Steam_Mad]

These connectors are cheap and can be used to made a good Arduino Nano socket. Just cut two pieces with the correct size and solder them on the board. It's easy to insert or remove the nano.



Search on eBay for: 40 pin board female

Which Ebay seller do you buy your sockets from? Got a link to the auction that you got your sockets from? As I want to be absolutely sure the Nano will fit well.

EDIT: Oh I see, these are just standard / low precision / non-turned-pin sockets and are basically the same as the 40 pin one that I have here for a 40 pin DIP chip. In which case, since my Nano is currently pushed into the socket (for testing the fit), I shall simply cut off a section from the end of it, and solder what's left onto the RX PCB, whilst keeping the Nano in the socket.

Cheers,

Alistair G.