[uncle_bob]

Anyone into 3D printing might be interested in what my friend Russ Gries gets up too.
He built his own delta printer and has created attachments for it that make printed circuit boards by engraving them and just recently has a made a coil winder attachment.

Check him out here https://www.youtube.com/user/rwg42985 for a start

[laulau]

Hi,
I plan to buy the Crealy Ender 3.
Some questions:
Are there any accessories that must be purchased immediately?
what type of filament do you recommend for the case?
how much filament is needed for a case?
How long does it take to print the case?
thank you in advance

[hornychz]

I plan to buy the Crealy Ender 3.
Some questions:
Are there any accessories that must be purchased immediately?
what type of filament do you recommend for the case?
how much filament is needed for a case?
How long does it take to print the case?
thank you in advance

Hi,

You will get the best answers from Jarek. 

But for now, at least, I have a brief reflection. If you buy it, you don't need anything but the filament.
It would be better to buy min. 1 kg of filament, Jarek recommends PLA. It is ecological (I mean from maize)
and relatively UV-resistant. I myself think that ABS is more weatherproof, but it is not UV-resistant
and harder to print. The actual amount you want the printer to tell you at the beginning of printing,
it depends a bit on the print settings. The quantity required is also reported on Thingiverse, but in this case
it is not. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3137127

When installing the kit, it is good (I'd like to say "important") to look at the video in advance, link from Jarek again:

And you might want to buy some extensions or improvements to the printer, there are a lot of them
on the Internet, some of them are very useful. E.g.: https://info.pcboard.ca/creality-ender-3/
Some can be printed alone, but some of them are better to buy straight, the price is low.

Good luck!

[jarekh3]

Are there any accessories that must be purchased immediately?
what type of filament do you recommend for the case?
how much filament is needed for a case?
How long does it take to print the case?
thank yo

Code:

Are there any accessories that must be purchased immediately?

First - filament 
Good filament, PLA.

Code:

how much filament is needed for a case?

I think - about 50g (?)

Code:

How long does it take to print the case?

Pro Plus?  about 24h for all parts.

[t3gathome]

Hi jarekh3,

after your design and comments about the ender 3, I dived deeply into 3d printing.
I ordered an Ender 3X and upgraded it with dampers, TL smoothers, belt tensioners, damping feet, BL Touch (auto bed levelling), two cable chains, a self designed bed handle with a nozzle cleaner + a self designed filament runout sensor, added a Rasp Pi with OctoPI, created a dry filament box and flashed Marlin Firmware.
I am very happy with the printer and now I feel comfortable enough to print your housing .

Could you please provide your settings to print? Am I right to assume, that you slice with cura?
Would it be possible, to provide a screenshot, or a summary of your slicer settings? Layer height, etc.

Thanks in advance!

[jarekh3]

Hi jarekh3,

after your design and comments about the ender 3, I dived deeply into 3d printing.
I ordered an Ender 3X and upgraded it with dampers, TL smoothers, belt tensioners, damping feet, BL Touch (auto bed levelling), two cable chains, a self designed bed handle with a nozzle cleaner + a self designed filament runout sensor, added a Rasp Pi with OctoPI, created a dry filament box and flashed Marlin Firmware.
I am very happy with the printer and now I feel comfortable enough to print your housing .

Could you please provide your settings to print? Am I right to assume, that you slice with cura?
Would it be possible, to provide a screenshot, or a summary of your slicer settings? Layer height, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Hi t3gathome

I prefer the program Slic3r PE (I do not like Cura).
The parameters I use are typical:
-layer heigh: 0,16 - 0,20mm
-vertical shells: 3
-horizontal shells: 3
-infill: 25%
-detect thin walls => off
-speed: about 45mm/s
nothing unusual...

TL smoothers

Hmmm....

dampers

such?

As you pull the belt more tightly, the motor axis tilts.

[t3gathome]

Hi jarekh3,

thanks for your quick reply! I started with cura and tried to get the best out of it.
Rigth now I start playing around with Slic3r PE  Thanks for the hint!
Yes your settings are pretty normal e.g. 45mm/s speed is below the max of my 3X...
TL smoothers are pretty good for straight walls! (they are now in X/Y/E)
Yes indeed - exactly these dampers... I have them on X and Y. The motors' axis tilts a bit, you are right. As I am an engineer of mechatronics I also saw that  But I believe it is not having such a big impact. The belt has pretty much of space and the angle is okay in my opinion...! I had to print some extras to fit them with the standard end stop switches and reasonable mods.
I used these two:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3245255
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3271077
And I edited the "Ender_3_X-axis_endstop_cover..." to fit my camera mounting
It can be found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3512664

[engolling]

These days I assembled my Pro2Plus RX Case.
Printed and modified by T3G that it contains a Raspberry PI.







It contains also my automated programming switch and it will contain a step down regulator to supply the pi.
And I have to shorten my display cable  because at the moment it is squeezed in

[hornychz]

These days I assembled my Pro2Plus RX Case.
Printed and modified by T3G that it contains a Raspberry PI.

It contains also my automated programming switch and it will contain a step down regulator to supply the pi.

[werk_ag]

It contains also my automated programming switch and it will contain a step down regulator to supply the pi.
And I have to shorten my display cable  because at the moment it is squeezed in

I'm surprised the display keeps working with a so long cable... but it is!
Good work. The automated programming switch is a nice idea for those who use a PI and don't want or can't go to the place where the receives is. Some time ago I thought on implementing something to achieve the same goal, but by sending the Davis command Light ON / OFF (used on Davis weather stations to remotely turn the backlight on or off). Instead of turning any light on or off the command could just turn HI / LOW one of GPIO pins, and using a relay, exactly equal to the one you are using, we could manipulate the Program / Run switch as you are doing. I abandoned the idea, because never felt the need to use it.

Thanks for the pictures, I always love seeing pictures of WeatherDuino devices. Your WeatherDuino UPS also looks very good, I think it is an almost must have device to any WeatherDuino receiver.